Day 15. Alaska Ride 2017: Ely, Nevada

I wake and walk across highway 50 to breakfast. As I am walking across, I look up a block and see a herd of deer cross the highway. A couple of trucks slowed to let the deer pass safely.  I finish breakfast and hit the road.

 

 

As I am leaving town I finally see the US 50 sign that says “The loneliest Road in America”.  The last two times I passed through town, I missed the sign and have been kicking myself ever since. As I am 40 miles out of town, I see a man dressed nicely, pushing a full baby carriage, with the top down. This sight is really strange in that we are about 100 miles from the next town, and there are no ranches or houses out on the road. The guy must have a few loose screws, or there is something nearby that I do not know about, but then why would someone walk a baby carriage on US 50?  

 

The conditions and road are just perfect for the first time in two weeks. There is no wind, the temperature is about 60, and the sun is out.  There is not a trace of smoke as I look to the mountains. Highway 50 is about as good as it gets, and I am riding it. 

 

I ride for a couple of hours and turn on to a dirt road which I take for about 7 miles.  I am heading to the Spencer Hot springs.  I decided to go to the hot springs this time, because I have the off-road tires on, where previously I did not.

 

 

The road is gravel and when you get to the hot springs it is gravel and dirt. The hot springs are on BLM land, and not maintained by the BLM.  Some of the locals have done some improvements over the years to make it enjoyable. I am not sure where the hot springs actual are, but I see a van parked to a water container. 

 

I decide to stop and check it out, and ask the van owner if he knows where all the spring locations are. I park the bike and walk around to the other side of the van, and there is Andy in all his glory walking towards me waving. Andy is a red head with freckles, who I would guess to be 65 years old. I ask Andy, “Where are all the other springs, and is this one here a good one?”. Andy replies that there are about 5 springs dotted over the landscape, and this one is a great one. The road only goes up from here, and I do not really like the look of the road, so I opt to stay here. I ask Andy “Going nude appears to be acceptable here?”, which is yet another stupid question, because Andy is standing in front of me in his buff, casually having a conversation.  Andy replies, “Yes, in fact I went naked on a two mile hike this morning”. 

 

 

I strip down to my bike shorts, which are essentially tight swim trunks, and jump in the hot tub. The temperature is just right, as Andy had diverted the tube carrying raw hot water out of the tub earlier to cool it down. You want the water hotter, then put the tube back in the tank. I soak for about 10 minutes, while Andy goes for yet another hike.  I get out, and get dressed as Andy, and another gentleman, with a dog comes back to the tub and start a conversation. Andy says that he got a music degree at UCI, the third year of the school’s existence, and that he was just back for the last two weeks visiting his brother in Denver. Andy spent the night at the tub, with three other groups, that have left earlier. It must have been quite a party late last night at the hot tubs. I had hoped to camp at the tubs last night, but could not get here in time due to construction and the storm.   I finish getting dressed, thank Andy and the other guy, and hit the road South, all the while the wind and temperature increase. 

 

The wind starts getting pretty strong and impacts my mileage, but I get to the town of Beatty on the outside of Death Valley at about 3:00 pm.  I suit up for a hot one and head down into the Death Valley, where I clock 114 degrees at the bottom.   I then head toward the Kilns and Mahogany flats, which is at 8,050 feet and the highest campground in Death Valley. Mahogany Flats is located in a juniper forest in the Panamint mountains.  

 

Once I get just South of the Kilns, the road turns to heavy gravel. The road appears much more difficult than the last time I was on it about 5 years ago. I head up the gravel road, which now has a steep incline that starts to turn into loose rocks. I get up pretty far, and concerned that I missed the campsite, I start to move to the side to stop, which is a huge mistake because I hit a rock, and I immediately drop the bike on the incline.  

 

 

The good news is it is a great spot to drop the bike, because it is just off the road and smooth, but still on a good incline. I strip the bike and hoist it up as before, and continue on the road, only to find that the campsite is just around the bend. The 16 campsites, or so are totally empty.  Just me once again, in my own campground.   

 

The views from the campground are of the park’s valley 8,050 feet below. The winds are gusting, but I already have my down jacket on as the sun has just set over the next ridge. Could be a windy night, although I doubt it will rain: but you never know.  Unfortunately, I did not secure my main water source in the form of a platypus water bottle on the bike very well, and it must have fallen off during the ascent. I do have a couple of small water bottles, so I will not die, but I may not boil or cook something in the morning as I may not have enough water left after the night. We will see how I am feeling.  There are not any animals here, other than one small bird that is walking around the campsite looking or food.  

 

As I sit at my picnic table working my blog, John walks into the campground. John is planning to go to Rogers Peak at 9,990 feet the highest spot in the part tomorrow with a telescope, and says he was in Badwater, the lowest point yesterday. John is originally from Atlanta, and now lives in Nashville. This is his first time on the West coast, and loves what he is seeing.  

 

I point to the last campsite, and suggest that John take it, as I believe it to be the premiere location, with a view. John is off to check it out and stake his claim. The little bird is still meandering around the campsite looking for food in the dark.